Pondicherry Nirvana: 2019

The tree was not tall. It leaned over the marble tomb, the ‘Samadhi’ - as if to provide a perpetual cover. On its top, flowers were beautifully arranged. Fragrance from them mixed with the faint incense smoke. A faint breeze played around.

The dawn had just broken. Ambient light was soft, silken. Devotees sat around the Samadhi. Some at lotus position, some at ease. Some kept their eyes closed, some stared at tomb. We took a place among them.

Not a word spoken. Not even a murmur. Silence was strong, pulsating, vibrant. The unifying energy could be felt, almost touched. We soaked and melted into it.

Peace, profound peace, prevailed.

***

Yesterday was not so peaceful though.

Indigo kept sending messages since morning announcing flight reschedule after reschedule. Apparently fog played havoc in Delhi and Bangalore - creating a ripple effect across the country. In our case, what was supposed to start by early afternoon ultimately departed 7 hours late in the evening.

When it touched down in Chennai, we lost all hopes to reach Pondicherry by night. We quickly made calls to Kaushiki and Dipro. The young couple welcomed us at mid of the night at their IIT Madras quarter. Hot food was served. Warm bed was laid.

Dipro, who teaches pure mathematics in this renowned institute, lured us to go for a quick birding around the campus in the morning. The question was whether we should sacrifice sleep in favour of birds.

Then a quick glance at a poster at their drawing room cleared all doubts. An albino blackbuck stag looked proudly at us. Dipro informed that the stag died recently – but there still was a female albino around. Which idiot would miss that chance.

So at 6 AM we started walking around the sprawling campus. We soon saw a herd of spotted deer. An Asian paradise flycatcher mesmerized us with the play of his long white tail. Near a waterbody, chasing calls, we discovered a pair of Spot-billed Ducks. An Orange headed ground thrush hopped over ground. Purple Swamp Hens walked up and down over a submerged tree. But where were the blackbucks?

We discussed at institute guesthouse canteen devouring breakfast spread. Our hosts decided to take us to other side of the campus.

The blackbuck herd was there alright. A stag in company of few hinds. And what was that? Wow! The albino. An albino blackbuck. What a beautiful oxymoron.

Satisfied, we bade farewell to our young hosts. Veera, our driver, who graciously agreed to stay back overnight in Chennai, drove us through Old Mahabalipuram Road towards Pondicherry.

Mahabalipuram monument cluster arrived. We roamed around the temples and rock reliefs built by Pallavas more than 12 centuries back. A more recent solitary lighthouse kept vigil over the sea.

We reached Pondicherry in another couple of hours.

Around five we entered Ashram. Though tourists were still pouring in, they were disciplined. We prayed, and decided to make another visit at late evening.

Sea promenade at evening took the shape of a fairground. Tourists and locals strolled by the sea. Vendors sold peanuts, glowing LED masks, and balloons. We left it to their pleasure.

French Quarter was quiet. Leafy streets whispered murmur at the slight provocation of light sea wind. The shaded lights revealed beautiful doors at Latin houses adorned with shadow. They were expectant – as if someone would call upon now.

Basa fish fingers, and red snapper with boiled vegetables were delicious at Margaritas restaurant on Sri Aurobindo Street. Auroshikha outlet was already closed by the time we finished dinner.

Inside Ashram, very few devotees near the samadhi. We sat, prayed, and meditated.

At early morning we were back again.

***

Veera was ready with his car near our guest house. He took East Coast Highway towards Chennai. We stopped near a bridge over the backwater.

Fishermen arranged fishing nets after their hard work since wee hours. Their fresh harvests were on sale. Further away a large flock of Northern Pintails swam, flew, and touched water again.

Who instructs these ducks to arrive here every year? Who creates albino blackbuck? Who touches our soul and evokes yearning for peace?

keneṣitāṃ preṣitaṃ manaḥ
kena prāṇaḥ prathamaḥ praiti yuktaḥ |
keneṣitāṃ vācamimāṃ vadanti
cakṣuḥ śrotraṃ ka u devo yunakti ||

Perhaps we would get these answers one day.

Om Shanti.

***