In the Land of Padmasambhava

Prologue

Hill. Mountain. Caves. Jungle. Bears. Birds. The play of sun, mist, cloud, and rain. Communities - Rai, Limboo, Bhutia, Gurung. Their customs. Their foods and drinks. Ruins of Chogiyals. Old monasteries. Bon religion. Buddhism. Tantric Buddhism. Guru Rinpoche. The land of Padmasambhava.

Chapter 1: The Nightmare

(3-4 January 2016)

The sleep has broken with a sense of unease. Is it the rhythmic trembling of the upper bank of the two tier compartment I am sleeping? No, something more. A phone is ringing somewhere.

Subhalakshmi's phone is ringing. Through the half asleep state I hear through the mumblings. Something is wrong.

What can happen at this early hour of morning? In a dry voice she responds - my mother has called. An earthquake just trembled our ancestral home. Everything is fine there. But she is worried about us. Subhalakshmi has assured her of our safety. But the sense of uncanny coincidence starts to seep through our nerves. Just back in April, in our trip to East Sikkim we experienced an earthquake at Lungthung, at 11000 feet altitude. We shall never forget that feeling, the feeling of loosing gravity, in our life. Now that we are going to Sikkim again and earthquake visits yet again. Not fair!

Quick search on Google and looking up the Facebook and WhatsApp messages reveal that the epicentre is near Imphal, close to Myanmar border. But we are not sure the situation in Siliguri or Sikkim. It is 5 am, - too early to call our contacts. Thus I try to go back to sleep. Padatik Express, which we have boarded last night from Sealdah station, is running late by an hour. So enough time before we reach our destination, as the GPS driven Google Map yields. But sleep does not come that easily in such situations.

Unlike all our last trips,we do not have a solid itinerary this time. We just have booked the first home stay at Selep, few KM out of Ravangla crowd. We have few contacts and bird names to follow afterwards.

The train delay elongates. About 8 AM we call Sanjip Newang, the homestay owner. He assures us that no damage on Sikkim side. The tremor is felt rather mildly there. Some good news, at least.

By the time we reach NJP station the clock has touched the mark of 11:30 AM, a solid 2.5 hour delay, very costly loss in hill vacation. A Bolero is sent to pick us up by Sanjip. The owner of the vehicle, Jigme Bhutia, an elegant and calm looking lad, is driving it himself. We take Siliguri bypass, hit the Sevoke Road, and continue on NH 10 for our 5 hour stretch to Ravangla.

In our wishlist, we had Kewzing, a small Bhutia village, just 8 km off Ravangla. We visited it on our way to Borong from Kaluk few years back. The homestay owners promised us a great bird watching experience around. Unfortunately we lost the the numbers and contacts over time. I have researched on internet without much result. Thus we wanted to visit the place on our way to Ravangla to make the booking. Unfortunately the Melli to Jorthang road is under serious repair. We shall be taking a different road which does not pass through Kewzing.

We take lunch stop at Melli. A plate of Momo with tasteless soup comes. We order another plate of chicken curry and rice. The mildly spiced chicken pieces with fatty skins are fine.

The bridge over Teesta is crossed. At the Sikkim border checkpost the identity is shown. Instead of taking left to Jorthang, the SUV takes the road on the right. Jigme explains – the road will take us to Namchi directly. And then usual Namchi-Ravangla Road will be followed.

The road we have taken is narrow and steep at times. After few hair pin bends, a couple of ladies wave their hands from the road side. The car stops and Jigme engages into a conversation with them in Nepali. "They are asking for a lift", Jigme translates, "Will you please allow?" We agree. The ladies board the front seat. The young one shyly thanks us.

As he starts the car, Jigme explains, "Transportation is still a big problem in Sikkim especially in villages. Usually one or two service jeeps leave the village in the morning and come back towards afternoon. Anything in between, you need to depend on a lift".

The old woman is toothless and has a very interesting ornament at her nose. When they reach their destination near a nameless bend, we ask the old lady if we can take a photo. She agrees. She is stiff at first couple of exposure. When I ask her to smile, she jokingly retorts in Nepali that she won't as she does not have teeth. But she breaks into smiles with a lovely innocent expression.

The usual chat continues. We learn more about Jigme. He lives few KM off Ravangla in a village called Sangmo. The name rings a bell in my mind. Is not it where we have one of the four holy caves used by Guru Padmasambhava for his meditation? Jigme confirms affirmative. We make a mental note of visiting the cave.

This area of Sikkim enjoys great religious significance. Guru Padmasambhava or Rinpoche, as he is known in Sikkim, was an 8th century Buddhist master, who is believed to have founded and spread the tantric Buddhism. He is also treated as the founder of Nyingma sect, the oldest of the four schools of Tibetan Buddhism.

Legends of Guru Rinpoche are widely spread across this land. It is believed he meditated at four caves around the Tashiding monastery. As part of his Sadhna he fought demons in these caves. Sharchog Bayphug, the cave in Sangmo village is the Eastern one.

There are few hot springs around this place. One of them is near Reshi town, at the bank of Rangit river and situated almost at the mouth of Khadro Sangphug, the southern cave. Three years back we passed through it. Our friend Manoj Sarki explained, Buddhist devotees come there and stay for days to pray and bath at the springs for physical, mental, and spiritual cleansing. Borong, close to Ravangla has another cluster of such springs. Jigme's parents are there now. He is unmarried and lives with his sister and brother, both of them work for government.

Lively chat makes the road shorter. At around 3 PM we reach a village called Sadam. Jigme stops the car near a bend and points to a cut that goes above the road. "A new viewpoint is being built here. You can see hills of Darjeeling and Gangtok. Do you want to check it out?" The place is called "Tarey Bhir". "Bhir" means cliff. A cliff to see "Tarey", i.e. " stars"? Worth checking.

So we walk up. A man and a woman were sitting at the entrance and ask for an entry fee. The money was not much but we are not sure how much walk it would be. We reluctantly buy our tickets and walk further up. Keeping a beer drinking couple in the right we soon reach a ridge. A walk way is built along the ridge that provides a good view on both sides. We do not proceed further. We have very little time as more than 2 hours drive is left.

Car moves along. Another lift to a girl riding the pillion of her boyfriend's motorbike with a punctured tyre. She takes a drop at Namchi. No 'thank you' is exchanged this time. The effect of urbanization?

Another 14 Km and we reach Damthang. We take a short break to find out something important. We have read about Tendong Hill, which believed to be a dead volcano, the only one in Sikkim. It overlooks the Maenam Hill near Ravangla, and hosts a Buddhist monastery at the top. The 3 km trek to this hilltop starts from Damthang bajar. The birding prospect should be good. But we are bit disappointed to find that a staircase has been built loosing it's wild look. Thus we decide to push back in our list of priorities.

The road from Damthang to Ravangla is picturesque and passes through a forest. A part of the road is built by cutting the rocky wall of the hill. It has an interesting name, "Putali Bhir". Another "Bhir"? A cliff to watch "Putali", butterfly? We do not spot any. But looking below the cliff suddenly proves the propriety of the name. We start to feel the butterflies in the stomach.

A sunrise view point is built near Ravangla. The Kanchenjunga range on the right is all aglow in red at the looming sunset.

Cold and dark evening set in when we reach Ravangla. We take left turn at Ravangla bajar and drive towards Kewzing, which is another 8 Km down the road. Near Sikkim NIT campus we take a right cut downhills. A three km drive and we reach Selep village. Another short rocky cut down, and we reach the terrace of Selep Village Homestay.

Apart from few feeble CFL lamps in the courtyard the place is dark. We call, nobody responds. Jigme disappears into other corner of the terrace leaving us alone. Are we at the right place! An earthquake at dawn, an empty homestay at dusk. Not the best day in our lives :-(

Chapter 2: The 'Mistrake'

 (4-5 January 2016)

Faint sign of conversation starts to seep in from the corner where Jigme has disappeared. So, all is not lost. We take this opportunity to look around.

A two storied house, very traditional in look, is sitting at the middle of the courtyard. A cottage with green stone wall is close to the slope the leads to the road above. Another modern double storied building, possibly the place of the owners, is sitting on the other side of the courtyard. The ground is covered with green grass. Few polyhouses are visible around the courtyard at various levels of the terraced slope. It certainly looks like a household of a well-to-do rural family.

(The photo was taken on next day when the light was better)

The feeble voices become stronger. Soon a smiling man arrives greeting us profusely. The voice is already familiar to me - I have spoken to him multiple times over phone. Sanjip Newang, the owner of the homestay. He apologises for not receiving us earlier. He has to go to Gangtok to take care of a personal affair. His parents have been with him and his wife and kids are at his in-laws’ place in Nepal. Thus there has been nobody to receive us when we have arrived. He quickly shows us to a room in the cottage. Very clean sheets and toilet. We are impressed. Sanjip goes back to the kitchen to arrange tea for us.

(The photo of Sanjip was shot on a later day) 

Nothing can be more refreshing than a quick and hot shower . We are tired, but dinner also comes quick. We move into the kitchen, decently big. Sanjip’s father, Mr. Rai, who is a teacher at Selep school, greets us at the table.

Mrs. Rai, who was on other side of the kitchen soon starts serving dinner at table with the help of a servant. Rice, chicken curry, dal, and, most interestingly, a squash root sabji are laid at the table. Accompaniment is tree tomato pickle. All delicious and we praise quite truthfully. Our liking makes them visibly happy. Sanjip explains - "We try to give the taste of local food to our guests. But we give it little bit at a time – not to give them cultural shock. Today saving the squash root and pickle, everything is rather mainstream Bengali food. Since you like it we shall bring in more traditional Rai food tomorrow." When asked, we confirm that we are non-vegetarian and not averse to pork or beef either. Sanjip assures he will try to get free range chicken and pork over next few days. Very luring idea for foodies like us.

Next topic of discussion is tomorrow's plan. We express our wish to trek at Maenam Wildlife Sanctuary. Sanjip will gladly arrange it. He will drop us at the Maenam gate in the morning and arrange a guide. We decide to start at 6:30 am next morning.

(The photo of Mr. and Mrs. Rai was shot on a later day)

The sky is clear in the morning. And a snow capped peaks are visible behind the hills from the courtyard. We quickly climb up the stairs of our hosts house and from the roof watched it for some time.

In the meanwhile Sanjip and the guide become ready. We get introduced to the guide, Gyan Bahadur Rai. His Hindi is flawed with not very rich vocabulary. But he has a lovely smile. Over next couple of days 'Gyanubhai' will become our constant companion.

I show him the pictures of Satyr Tragopan, and Fire-tailed Myzornis to Gyanubhai. He can identify both. Interestingly, he identify the pheasant as "Munal". Himalayan Monal though a pheasant, is a different bird. He has seen 'Munal' at the top of Menam hill. And the fire-tailed Myzornis inhabits at nearby jungle.

We drive to Ravangla bajar, take left, reach near Tathagata Tsal or Buddha Park. The Maenam gate is just beside the park. Tickets are purchased. The forest staff warns us not to leave the walking trail as few Himalayan Black Bears are seen near the trails recently.

We start the trek. About a KM of the path follows a water pipeline with a gentle inclination. Gyanubhai explains that this line is coming from Barmili falls near Borong, and goes to Namchi. Gyanubhai stops and cuts a walking stick for Subhalakshmi from a shrub. He offers one for me. I decline it out of vanity, a wrong decision that I shall identify over next couple of hours.

We hear some sound from a bush above the narrow path. "May be a deer", Gyanubhai says. I try to move along the path. Gyanubhai stops me and directs towards the bush - "this is the path". "Are you sure?", I ask. "Yes. The forest department built the trekking path we were following so far. But since it takes longer to reach the peak using that path, villagers have stopped using it for long. Now the original path is closed and only the shortcut above is used."

We follow him on the short cut. My spirit dampens. The path is narrow and steep, part of it has more than 50 degree elevation. And it is passing through dense wood with three layer canopy - moss at the bottom, shrubs in the middle and large tree at the top. While birds will be there for certain, chances of spotting will be little, and clicking something decent will be almost impossible due to light and foliage.

But we do not have a choice other than proceeding along the trail, or whatever exists. The climb is gruelling. And with my additional 3 kg camera, it becomes really tricky. A stick would have been great to keep the balance and to push the vegetation out of the way. But now I am ashamed to ask for it.

After about 15 min climb we reach a ridge and take some rest. Some exchanges with Gyanubhai does not give us much relief. We have crossed just about a KM and half. And it is at least 10 KM climb to the top. So we push along.

The relief of ridge is short lived. Soon another climb begins. This time steeper and longer. At a small clearance we take some rest. And no bird activity so far. I play some local bird calls including that of "Munal" from my mobile. No response comes back.

Another climb takes us to a short meadow. The grass is all dry. A short rest area with concrete bench and shade can be seen. We take rest again. When asked about bear, Gyanubhai asserts that he has never seen any bear in this path so far. And some of his treks have been through darkness, in evening or at early hours of morning. So nothing to worry about. A greater worry, as per his version, is local drunks. Some of them apparently tried to take down the tin shade by chopping off the wooden pillars.

The climb after this meadow is slightly easier for about 200 meter. A slightly bigger clearance appears. All of a sudden the life becomes tad brighter: the trees around are full of birds. That does not mean that prospect of photography is any better though. The light is still very low. And the birds are mostly small, possibly warbler variants.

Nevertheless we decide to wait here sometime. We start to look by keeping the sun behind our back. From our back a luring rhythmic sound of hitting the tree comes - must be a woodpecker. No time to verify the type as we see some bird movements on the sunlit trees.

A bird about the size of a myna, is hopping around. I start shooting it in burst mode. Chances of getting anything decent is minimal. Still exposures thrown. After a while it moved into First look at the frames gives me an hint that it can be a Red tailed Minla. Later at the homestay, we find it to be Black Headed Shrike Babbler. Not a vulnerable bird. But in Indian subcontinent it spreads rather thinly. So certainly a good shot. Moreover this is one of the birds that is still baffling the ornithologists. In a recent year (2007), It is proposed to be moved into Vireonidae family, which has been thought to be restricted to Western Hemisphere, from the babbler family (Musicapidae Timaliinae). Salim Ali and Ripley did not consider it in their monumental works on Indian birds.

Now time to focus on the woodpecker. We follow the sound and spot it easily. It is high up an oak tree, busy pecking around a lichen infested part of the branch. Our patience soon yields result. It gradually comes down. Well within shooting range. We send another volley of exposures. Aha! A Darjeeling Woodpecker. Lifer for us. But why is it called 'Darjeeling' Woodpecker? Consulting the Satish Pande book reveals that it was first identified by Edward Blyth in 1845 at Darjeeling.

Cloud starts to shroud the sky gradually. Already scarce light becomes rarer. Few feet above, a mongoose like creature moves into a bush before I could focus anything. We start climbing again and continued for another KM or so. The oak and rhododendron forest is quite dense now. We realise, with our pace, it will take another 4-5 hours to reach the top near the monastery. We quit and start to descend.

Climbing downhill is not as easy as it seems. The muscle strength is being tested at every step down. Keeping the balance is trickier. Throwing away my vanity, I ask for a walking stick from Gyanubhai. He obliges.

We climb down to the meadow with rest shade. The cloud moves elsewhere and sun again shines. We shall be taking breakfast here. Gyanubhai opens his backpack and retrieves two plastic bags of roasted corn and pieced ginger. Local produce, healthy and delicious. 

While we are munching on these, he disappears into jungle and comes back with chopped pieces of dry wood. Using bit of oil he soon makes a fine fire with the wood.

Then come a saucepan and couple of airtight tiffin boxes. One of them produces 'shel roti', a twisted fat thread of rice flour, milk and little bit of sugar, fried in oil. Something like a crossbreed of our Bengali 'jilipi' and 'teler pithe' - but far less sweet. He applies ghee on it and using a stick do a little bit of roasting at the fire. The second box delivers squash root sabji from last night. Using the saucepan it is warmed and served in plates. We have few pieces of cheese to make it more interesting. What ensues is a grand breakfast amidst wild forest.

Rest of the story is about climbing down the same trail. The bends, woods and contours look completely different while coming down, as if we are following a different path. Without a guide coming here would have been a disaster.

By 12:30 PM we come back to the gate of the sanctuary. Sanjip was waiting for us with his car. The trek was no way successful. We have not seen a single pheasant. None of our wishlist birds have made any appearance. Neither could we reach to the top. Yet, why are we not unsatisfied? The solemn Buddha at Tathagatha Tsal only looks on. Perhaps he is leaving it to us to find the answer of this beautiful mystery. 

Chapter 3: The Seven Mirrors 

(5 January 2016)

We have few more hours to kill before lunch. We start off towards the Tibetan Settlement Camp, on the Ravangla Damthang Road.

The camp, which is officially called Kunpheling Tibetan Settlement was established in the year 1978 with the assistance of Indian Government by State Government of Tibetan Organization. It was originally built to accommodate about a thousand people. As on today the website of Department of Home, Central Tibetan Organization documents it as 1089, so the growth is almost stagnant. It was originally established as an Agriculture based camp. But quite interestingly a carpet weaving centre has been developed, which is apparently producing high quality floor covering woolen carpet.

We reach there at a wrong time. The centre is closed between 12:30 PM and 2:00 PM for lunch. But Sanjip is not a man to be said 'no'. He finds a lady who opens the showroom and factory for us.

The look of the carpets is very luring. Price is alright. But we are travelling light. We decide not to add further.

A guest party with 10 members are coming today to Sanjip's place. He has to pick up some grocery from Ravangla bajar. Then we go back to Selep, where another round of delicious lunch is waiting for us. By now birding bug has bitten Sanjip. He stops his car near the entrance slope of his house. A small bird is emitting a mechanical 'kit kit' sound and raising his tail in angular motion. A male blue-fronted redstart, an winter visitor.

The lunch table is adorned with the home made ghee, salad, chicken cooked in Rai style, cabbage, and dal. But the most attractive dish is 'makima'. 'Makima' is flower of an local orchid. It blooms around October for a month. It is dried and preserved for rest of the year. The flower is a delicacy in Sikkim, and as a result, rather costly. In Gangtok market, it may attract the price of Rs. 400-500 a kg.

In the afternoon, Sanjip drives us around the village. The car takes the direction to Ravangla, but takes a diversion on the right to Bakhim. We cross Barfung village, pass beautiful prayer wheels run by paddles using mountain streams. Keeping a playground on left we enter into woods. Through the trees, a monastery on top of a small hillock becomes visible. Doling monastery. 

Doling monastery is one of the oldest gumphas in Sikkim. In late 8th century Guru Padmasambhava came to Sikkim in search of 'hidden' land, which would act as a refuge for his followers during the 'degenerate' age in future. As predicted by him, in the year 1718 AD, Mongol Dzungar tribe invaded Tibet. The Dzungars start to prosecute Buddhist followers. Many of the terrorised Buddhist saints crossed the border and entered southern hidden land of Sikkim. As part of this exodus, Lama Dorjelingpa and his son Rigdzin Longyang, followers of Nyingma school, also left Tibet, entered Sikkim and established this Gumpha. The Gumpha is still managed by the descendants of Dorjelingpa.

The legend is, establishment of this monastery led to a showdown between Lama Dorjelingpa and Deity of the mighty peak Kangchen Dzonga (Kanchenjunga). The deity felt he was neglected. However, the clash was amicably settled and the the footstep of the deity is still inscribed in the Gumpha.

We find the Gumpha closed. Haze covers the Kanchenjunga range. The surrounding chortens and prayer flags are being brushed by the light breeze from the oak and Katus trees. The evening is settling in. A flock of grey treepies are making noise on a distant tree. A faint gurgling sound of a mountain stream nearby is playing with the hush of breeze. As if the revered Lamas and the Deities are still conferring on how to settle the clash between Dorjelingpa and Kangchen Dzonga. We kept our silence not to disturb them with our mortal presence.

Near the monastery, a small lake spreads. The Seven Mirror lake. About sixty-seventy years back, the lake was in its youth and used to have water throughout the year. But gradually it started drying up and the presence of water became seasonal. In 2008, Ravangla Block Administration Center through National Rural Employment Guarantee Act funding started working on reviving a mountain stream to the lake, making it alive once again. In this winter, the prayer flags reflects at the green water of the lake. What a great success story of living in close harmony with nature.

We drive back towards Selep. Our limited birding success in the morning has made Sanjip more saddened than us. And he keeps on stopping the car for the search of bird. To be honest the woods and bushes are perfect for many birds' habitat. It is surprising why they are conspicuously absent today. Kalij Pheasant usually are seen during this time around this place, Sanjip mentions. He takes a dirt road and enters into a deeply wooded area. "We do spot deers here sometime". We stop near a stream. Sanjip takes our photograph. 

The car crosses a small culvert over the stream, and then what seems to be ruin of an old wall. What lies ahead of us is a beautiful football ground. On one side of it a slope down to woods. On the other side a terraced paddy field, as if the stepped gallery of a stadium.

A small tinned shade is visible. Few men are making a fire and drinking brandy around it. Sanjip introduces us to this place: "It was a paddy field earlier. Recently, youths of the village converted it into a football field cum fair ground. Just few weeks back a Buddhist festival is celebrated here along with a tournament. Now we are planning to arrange an archery competition here. The shade is a small canteen run by my friends. Some of them are chatting there. Let's stop here and have some tea". At that twilight, we silently enjoy the ginger flavoured sweet tea, while looking at the distant hills. Sanjip's friends refuse to take payment for the tea.

Our generous host drives us to another part of the village. Unlike many other religions, Buddhism gives same rights and status to monks and nuns. Nunneries, though less in number, are not rare. A nunnery is coming up here. It looks empty now. But Sanjip knocks a door and few kid nuns start to appear followed by a young nun. We greet her and exchange namaskaars. The lady informs that all other nuns have gone to Kewzing to attend a ceremony. She is looking after the kids. There are 45 nuns in this establishment including six kids. The nun herself and kids hail from Arunachal Pradesh. She is very cordial and offers us tea. We thank her but decline. She invites us to come back tomorrow, when other nuns are there. We can chat with them and have tea.

The darkness has already covered the surroundings. The dhupi (pine) branches are lit into small chortens. Sweet smell spreads around the nunnery courtyard and surroundings. As we walk down the slope to the parked car, I cannot help wondering what quest can bring this young lady and this adorable kids all the way from the warmth of home in Arunachal to this spartan nunnery in Sikkim to take this path of renunciation. But I guess, for materialistic city dwellers like us, that would remain unanswered.

Chapter 4: The Return of Dead

(5-7 January 2016)

As the darkness sets in the evening, Sanjip invites us for a traditional drink. We are ushered into the ground floor of that old house at the centre of the courtyard. At the corner three small couches made of bamboo and can with deer skin cover are placed around an earthen oven. The oven is lit with fire woods. A large bowl of water is being warmed on it. A small table is kept in front of the oven. Two metallic cylindrical containers are placed on it. The containers are covered with lids having two wooden straws passing through a whole on them respectively. These aware the traditional utensils to drink millet beer or womach or washim as called in Rai language.

Once we comfortably settle, Sanjip offers us these drinks. He is a teetotaller. We pick up one and taste it. It is a warm drink with sweet smell and lovely taste. The container is filled with fermented millet soaked with warm water. Once the water is finished, it can be refilled and after five minutes it can be drunk again. The whole process can be repeated for about five times without compromising the taste. He hands over small bowls filled with accompaniment of the drink. It is made of rice and chicken keema with traces of chicken bone. Mildly spiced and cooked in oil. Nice. It is called wachipa, a traditional dish, which is exclusively cooked by Rai community only.

"This house is 117 years old, to be precise", Sanjip gives us a bit of background. "This is a typical Rai house. The floors are low ceilinged. The upper floor is accessible through the wooden ladder at the centre of the ground floor. A veranda surrounds the per floor. We are sitting at the most important corner of the house." He points to something which looks like a smaller oven made of three stones over the earthen oven that is lit, "this is called Sharnkhalung, the most sacred object of the home. We lit fire here every day in the morning and evening. Only members of our house are allowed to touch it. Once daughters are married, they are not allowed anymore as they belong to a different family then. If a birth or death happens in the family, a puja is performed here."

He continues, "Rai community follow Hindu religion. After death we bury the dead body usually somewhere in our own land. The priest or bijuwa performs the last rites of the dead. On the third day after the death, the spirit of the dead person appears at bijuwa's body. Bijuwa speaks in the same voice of the dead. Usually, the spirit takes this opportunity to inform his or her relatives of whatever he or she could not communicate before death. Sometimes some family secrets or information hidden wealthy are passed to the heirs." We skeptically ask if Sanjip experienced similar incidents. He confirms that without any hesitation. We finish our drink and food and sit at the dimly lit room with darkness around. Mrs. Rai calls us for dinner.

Dinner is simple but delicious again. Today's main course is free range chicken. Senior Rai says he will try to arrange pork tomorrow. As for morning's plan, we decide to trek at Tendong hill. Sanjip would take us there. Gyanubhai would be the guide again.

But perhaps the guardian spirits have other plans. Around midnight, my stomach gave up. During trek in the morning I tasted some of the local fruits without washing them. despite many pleas by Subhalakshmi, I did not wash my hand well before breakfast. Maybe such disobedience cannot be tolerated by the family oriented spirits. Thus this punishment ensues.

The attached picture shows the millet beer container. The Sharnkhalung is glowing on the middle left part of the frame.

A look at the early morning sky is not very promising. The clouds have arrived. I call Sanjip to cancel the morning plan. We decide to stay put in the village. We walk towards Barfung but take a dirt road downhill to Anethang. On the left slope above some birds start to show some activity. A yellow naped woodpecker flies above us. The ubiquitous grey treepies make usual chaos above. A red billed leothrix appears at the leafless tee above. Some more walk helps me to regain some of my appetite back. We come back.

Mrs. Rai, with her motherly nature, has become concerned about my health. She arranges boiled potato, butter and boiled rice for our breakfast. She thinks it is her cooking which has made me sick. We repeatedly assure her that with this cleanliness and homely cooked meal, she is no way responsible for it.

After breakfast, Sanjip drives us to Sangmo village, where one of the four holy caves located. Gyanubhai joins us. We take the road to Singtam from Ravangla bajar, continue for about 5 km and take a downhill diversion on left. Sanjip parks the car near a narrow concrete walking path. We along with Gyanubhai start walking down the prayer flag adorned path. The path goes downhill for about 300 meter before reaching the mouth of the cave.

Last year, during our East Sikkim trip, seeing my interest in Buddhist religion, my young friend Sanjeev Tamang gifted me a small but very valuable booklet: "Pilgrimage to the Four Great Sacred Caves of Sikkim" by S. G. Dokhampa. This booklet provides a comprehensive introduction to these caves along with complete instruction on how to visit these holy caves. That was my first formal introduction to Sarchog Bayphug, or the Eastern Cave.

 

The cave has a decently big mouth. Entering that takes the visitor few feet down to a moderately sized chamber. After that another climb takes you to an iron ladder to a very narrow opening. We cannot move beyond that as we do not bring any torch, which will be necessary to move further. Gyanubhai tells us there is a bigger chamber inside. The booklet indicated that chamber, which is of 15' x 20' size, is called Khandoi Tshog-Khang, or assembly hall of Dakinis. Many believes that the cave has later bifurcated to Maenam Hill on one side, and Tendong Hill on other side.

Another legend, which is told to me by Mr. Rai is this cave is connected to Southern Cave near Reshi. The booklet confirms that legend. It is told, in early 19th century, Yogini Naljoma Asha Lhamo traveled between these caves through this connection using her spiritual power. When she returned, she was carrying fresh bamboo leaves and holy water in her bell. She informed the devotees that in the course of this journey she discovered a Milky Lake with bamboo trees grown around.

A monastery has been built near the cave. We visit that before taking the steps upward. Gyanubhai, did his schooling in this village, meets a friend. The friend walks us up to the place where the car is parked.

We decide to meet Jigme, who picked us up from NJP, at his house, which is in this village. He is waiting for us and takes us to their house.

Like the Newang house, it also seems to be well to do household. Cardamom plantation being sprinkled with irrigation water, piggery, a small orchard. The house is wooden and, as Jigme confirms, about 80 years old. He takes us to their large prayer room. Considering the size of the house, the prayer room is substantially big. We offer brief prayer, come out and stand at their hanging veranda. Couple of couches covered with animal skin with black fur stand there. When asked Jigme replies that this is from a Himalayan Black Bear, that his father killed with a gun years back when hunting was allowed. He offers tea. But we decline as lunch time is approaching.

Near Sanjip's house we stop to track some birds. A Bolero stops near us and the man from the driving seat starts chatting with me in perfect English. He is Sanjip's cousin brother. He is a teacher and lives in Namchi. I am pleasantly surprised when he asks me if I have spotted the Fire-Tailed Myzornis yet. Despite Sanjip's excellent hospitality, his birding knowledge is at its infancy. Gyanubhai, though knowledgeable about nature, is not a skilled birder. So such a question definitely makes me happy. When I answered negative, he informs me that these beautiful free birds come to drink raisin from Katus (chestnut) tree that grow around. Unfortunately they are not around this time. He gives some instruction to Sanjip in Nepali, bids me goodbye and drives off.

We get down near the slope of the house and start walking down as Sanjip drives the car down to courtyard. "Hello sir", a nasal voice hits us from somewhere above. We find the source of the voice in the form of a dark silhouetted figure hanging from a tree branch. For a moment we think it must be a ghost. Then in clear Hindi the figure asks, " are you interested in village tour? I can show you around." I ask, "who are you?". Now the response comes in English, "I am Lambu". When I tell him that we need to talk to Sanjip, he instructs me to take his name to Sanjip.

We discuss this with Sanjip, and he starts laughing. Lambu is his employee. About ten years back he has apparated at this village and starts inhabiting at Sanjip's farm. Sanjip's effort to find his home and background failed as he refused to give the right information. Sanjip and his family has accepted his presence. He is hardworking and sincere at his work. But he has a great weakness to alcohol. Despite several admonishment and punishment, Sanjip could not cure his addiction. Few month's back, when he was sober, Sanjip asked him to show a guest party around the village. Some tips followed and that led to his liquid love. Lambu's brilliant brain sparked the idea of a new enterprise, offering his great guide service to homestay guests. Unfortunately because of non-cooperation from his employer, his service business is yet to take off.

The picture shows the cottage we have stayed in the homestay.

I am careful with lunch and eat morsels of rice, dal, rai shak ( a local leafy vegetable, not sure if the name has any relationship with the name of the community), and light free range chicken curry. Already feeling better.

Guanubhai arrives soon and we start a tour around the village. We pass through the piggery of Newang household, follow a trail down to a narrow stream, cross a bridge and arrive near the village. Gyanubhai introduces us to many trees and plants including three varieties of "chaap" tree. We see nakima orchid plant. We visit Sanjp's cousin's farm, which keeps the best orchid house in the village. A lemon tree stands bowed with its huge mass of fruits, which looks like orange. Another larger citrus tree at the courtyard is also full of fruits, which is locally called 'foksey'. The farm also keeps Turkey poultry and rabbits.

We walk up and reach near a bamboo grove. Gyanubhai asks us to wait few minutes as during evening sometimes Kalij Pheasants visit here. However, today none of them around. Another turn uphill takes us to the carpeted road of the village. We walk towards the homestay.  

The dinner is quite special tonight. Because of my weak stomach, Mrs. Rai has arranged fekrey, which is made of tender part of a local cane. It tastes mildly bitter, but supposed to be good for digestion. Rice and dal has accompanied a delicious pork dish. My appetite shoots up immediately.

I call up our contact in Yuksom and book ourselves at Limboo Homestay, which TripAdvisor recommends very highly. Sanjip knows this gentleman and confirms that it will be a really nice place to stay.

Morning is bit uneventful. Mr. and Mrs. Rai show us their farm. Separate green houses are built for vegetables and orchids. Few tree tomato plants are standing here and there along with other vegetation. Some part of the terraced open field is used for cardamom cultivation. The piggeries, cowsheds and poultry are placed at distance from the house to keep away the smells. The Newang family also owns some more land near Borong for cardamom plantation.

After breakfast it is time for farewell. We are gifted with 'khada' the scarf to make our journey safe. Mrs. Rai gifts Subhalakshmi a large bag full of lemon, tree tomato, and a small bottle of ghee - all from their garden and farm. This elderly couple have already touched our heart with their affection and warmth. These gifts make the parting difficult.

Sanjip requests me to write my comments in a guest book. While I am struggling with words to express our superb experience here, a shadow of a head appeares on the book. Lambu has silently arrived and is looking at my comments. After I finish up, I ask him if it's alright. He gives me a satisfactory nod with the air of an wise man. He is reeking of strong alcohol. Gyanubhai informs us he has stolen some of drink being brewed at neighbourhood house and made himself comfortable and wise in the morning.

Time to take few group photographs. Gyanubhai obliges. Lambu requests us for a portrait shot. Once I agree, he asks me to wait and disappears. In few minutes he comes back with an orchid plant with flower buds. Perhaps being a romantic soul he cannot think of being photographed without flower. I click few frames and he becomes visibly happy.

Mr. Rai has taught me few words in Rai language. Using them we exchange a parting 'shewangne' or 'namaskaar' after bidding 'alangne' or 'thank you', before hitting the road.

     

Chapter 5: The Naval Point

(7 January 2016)

We start towards Yuksom. Sanjp is driving. Gyanubhai is also going with us. Over last few days they have become determined to improve on birding skill. Birding discussion starts. I advise them to focus on the local birds and identifying their habitats for easy spotting. Name of few birding books and websites are sent. 


We pass the village school, run by Missionaries. Sanjip's kids study here. We are delighted to learn that Gyanubhai's daughter has secured a long term scholarship from an organisation in Australia and studies in the same school.

We pass Barfung, Doling Monastery, Kewzing. The road starts to descend down towards Rangeet valley. The new bird enthusiasts from the front seat try to locate bird activities around the tree. We stop to track a velvet fronted nuthatch and a great barbet. Sanjip points to another bird, which looks like to be female oriental magpie robin. But the single colour at underparts plumage reveals that it is different - can be a female blue capped redstart.

Our host, Mr. D. S. Limboo calls Sanjip and asks if we want to have lunch there. We confirm. Mr. Limboo is an interesting person. I shall talk more about him later. But he is also an avid bird watcher. He advises Sanjip to look at the bottom of Tashiding Hill where Sultan Tits can be spotted.

Sanjip drive further down where the road divides to Legship on the left and Tashiding on right. We take the right turn towards Tashiding, reach a hanging bridge and cross to West Sikkim. The road again winds up. We buy some local oranges from road side vendors. Another half an hour and we reach the entry point of Tashiding Monastery. The car needs to be parked here and we have to walk uphill.

The significance of this hill and the monastery is immense. Let us look back into history little bit.

Guru Padmasambhava arrived in Tibet 749 AD and spent about 54 years there in spreading the Tantric Buddhism. After completing his mission in Tibet, he selected hidden lands around Tibet so that dharma practitioners can take refuge in the wake of 'degenerate' age in Tibet. Sikkim, or as he called it "Demojong', is one such hidden land. He first landed at Lake Gurdongmar in North Sikkim. Seeing the good signs around, Guru Padmasabhava was convinced that this can be a holy place. He then shot an arrow to select a place for his meditation. The arrow fell down at Tashiding Hill and the Guru meditated there. He sanctified the placed and marked it as naval point of the sacred land. Then he explored and meditated around this holy place including the four holy caves: Sharchog Beyphug or Eastern Cave (near Sangmo village, the one we have visited), Khandro Sanphug or Southern Cave (near Legship), Nub DechenPhug or Western Cave (can be reached by two day trek from Darap village on Pelling-Yuksom Road), and Jhang Lhari Nyingphug or Northern Cave (can be reached again by two day trek from Chongong village on Yuksom-Tashiding Road).

As he predicted the future dark ages, he concealed many religious treasures in its major places of worship for future spiritual followers. At the same time exorcised a number of Demons, Nagas and Yakshas who attempted to hinder his spiritual works and thereby inducted them in the class of the “Ney-Dag Cho-Sung” (the guardian of the sacred places and the defender of Dharma).

About 1372 A.D, Lama Rigdzin Goedem visited this land, revealed many treasure-texts for restoring the Guru’s precious teachings, wrote about the location of the sacred places. Following his revelation, many lamas of later era arrived in Sikkim. Lama Dorjelingpa, the founder of Doling monastery, was one of them.

About 75 years before Lama Dorjelingpa, in the year 1642, three revered saints, Gyalwa Lhatsun Chenpo, Ngadag Sempa Rigzin Phuntshog, and Kathog Kuntu Zangpo arrived in Sikkim from Tibet. Their arrival is treated with much significance in Sikkim's history. We shall discuss their arrival later. But it is believed, Ngadag Sempa Rigzin Phuntshog founded Tashiding monastery, one of the most important Nyingma seats, till today. Later, in 1717 AD, third Chogiyal of Sikkim, renovated it.

 

The trail to the monastery hill top has concrete steps. We pass by prayer wheels run by wind. This is another interesting concept. The idea is, as long as the wheels are being turned, by whatever force it can get, it generates the same effect of chanting the prayers. Thus the monks use natural elements to turn it whenever they can. On day before yesterday, we have seen one being turned by the water from a stream, near Doling monastery. Now this battery of wheels is being run by wind. Every idea, including their religious rituals, is interwoven with nature. How wonderful! 

The monastery is open. Inside the monks are chanting mantra in unison on baritone. Since it is a Nyingma seat, we expected tantric idols, something like Ati-Buddha that we visited in Rinchenpong Monastery. But we see Guru Padmasambhava at the centre along with other deities around him. Later we learnt, only very few monasteries keep Ati-Buddha idol. Rinchenpong is one of them. Most of the Nyingma monasteries keep Guru Padmasambhava as their main Buddha. 

Considering its long history and age, the wall of the monastery looks rather new. When a monk comes out of the temple, we ask him the reason. He kindly explains the wall we see is a new wall built later. The actual old walls are inside. 

We climb down the trail for a cup of tea. Weather is sunny. The locals chat with us about a bear troubling them recently. The bear had almost same reputation of Lambu because of its love for alcohol. However, unlike Lambu, he was not harmless. In his thirsty sojourns, he had injured quite a few villagers and killed one. But soon his alcoholic nature became his nemesis. Once, in his quest of drinks, he found a tin full of his favourite poison. Greedy that he was, he pushed his head into it and got stuck in it. Villagers found him in a hilarious but favourable condition to capture. Foresters are called, he was anaesthetised and released deeper into jungle far away, much to the relief of the villagers.

While tea is coming I walk around in search of bird. The sacred hill blesses me with a female Niltava.

We start driving again. Another 20 km to Yuksom. The road is getting more beautiful with every turn. Vegetation density improves. Streams and small falls greet us at almost every alternate turn. We stop near Phamring Falls. Few local kids are coming back from forests after collecting firewoods. But the hard work has not been able to drain their playful happy mood. 

We pass Yuksom school. Soon few shops start to appear. Most of them are selling trekking merchandise, as it is the entry point of Goche La and Dzongri trek through Kanchenjunga National Park. The road narrows down and Sanjip parks the car near a building, which seems to be a health centre. The Yuksom Hospital. A lean and fit smiling man with a blue bandana opens the door of car, greets, and shakes my hand. Mr. D. S. Limboo, the owner of Limboo Homestay. He points to our camera fitted with Sigma 150-500mm and exclaims, "it will be useful here". I feel elated. 

He shows us our room at first floor. Small. But clean. Almost clinically clean. With our five years of extensive travel at hills, we have never seen such white and fluffy towels and linens, almost of same quality of five star hotels. We are immediately impressed. 

While the lunch is being placed at table, we walk up to the terrace, which provides a nice view of the backyard. Outside of homestay boundary there are few fish tanks, used for breeding trouts. There are couple of cottages near the boundary wall. Subhalakshmi asks Mr. Limboo if we can stay there. Mr. Limboo answers in affirmative but warns, "a couple of black bears are roaming around. They have started to live near a river valley. But they are visiting the village after dark. Yesterday, they came near those fish tanks in the morning, which is unusual for them." We decide not to move.

We bid goodbye to Sanjip and Gyanubhai after lunch. Mr. Limboo shows the village around. But I need to introduce Mr. Limboo to you first.

This gentleman in mid-thirties is the principal of a school about 5 km from Yuksom. Like many Yuksomers, he was involved in trekking business. Few years back he got interested into bird-watching. And the knowledge and skill he acquired, just using naked eye and ear, without any equipments, is spectacular. He not only can recognise all the local species, which is quite large in count here, he can identify them from their calls. But it does not stop there. As a teacher, he started to spread awareness about conserving the nature and birds among his students and village kids. Limboo community, like most of the hill communities, is non-vegetarian. But to live in the true spirit of nature conservation, he and his whole family has turned strict vegetarian. Mrs. Limboo is a nurse in the adjacent health centre. They have a daughter, but they raise two other kids from a remote village.

 

Yuksom is a predominantly Limboo settlement. We are quite surprised to find that the villagers speak in Limboo language and not in Nepali. While the languages of many of these indigenous tribes are being gradually extinct with the invasion of Nepali language, it is commendable how the village has preserved their own culture and identity. 

We walk away from the village following a narrow trail behind the health centre. It takes us near a small bridge over a brook. Apparently the bears are inhabiting the valley of this brook on further downstream. On other side of the bridge a steep trail winds through the woods and follows about 1.5 km to Dubdee Monastery. The shrubs near the stream is a good birding spot, Mr. Limboo advises. 

The stream apparently is a favourite spot among at least two types of forktails: Slaty-Backed and Spotted. The redstarts were hopping on the rocks. We walk inside those shrubberies and walk through a narrower trail towards the village. I ask him about the other birds. He mentions, Yellow-Bellied Fantail, some varieties of Rosefinches and Flycatchers, to name a few. Blood Pheasants are not seen in Yuksom, but he assures me that a two day trek to Dzongri will provide me almost cent percent chance to spot them. Other exotic species around here are Grandela and Honeyguides. Himalayan Cutia, and Red-Billed Leothrix are two more birds commonly spotted here. I ask him about Fire-tailed Myzornis. He confirms that near Dubdee he has seen them quite a few times.

We enter the village. He introduces me to a bunch of kids, whom he is giving training in bird-watching. The smallest one, a nephew of Mr. Limboo, apparently the star of the lot. He tells me about the Myzornis and describes accurately the difference between Red-Vented and Himalayan Bulbuls. Clearly Mr. Limboo's work is already yielding results.

We come near a green house. A familiar bird call is audible now. He points me to a bird parching on a wire inside the green house. I could not believe my eyes. It is a female Oriental Magpie Robin, a very common bird in lower Bengal. Apparently about four years back, a pair has arrived in this relatively high altitude village and made it their home. Mr. Limboo is very excited about their presence. Unfortunately I could not share his enthusiasm as it is such a common bird in Basirhat. But I could not help thinking how rarity can change the perspective. I feel excited seeing a Leothrix, and my host seeing a Magpie Robin.

We reach the main road again. He takes us to a turn where the road upwards has gone to coronation Throne, Kathog Lake, and Kanchenjunga National Park, at the end of it. The evening is approaching fast. So we thank Mr. Limboo and start walking towards the Coronation Throne, or as locally called, Norbughang.

 

Again a bit of history. In 1642, the three saints entered Sikkim following a prophecy. They entered from different directions and first assembled at Norbughang, which was later called "Yuksom" by the local Lepchas. Based in the prophecy, they sent a search party towards the east direction to find the fourth person destined to be the Chogiyal or “Dharma King” of this land. The party wandering through the stiff hills and valleys reached finally a place, which is called Gangtok now. They found the man called “Phuntshog” as mentioned in the prophecy text. The search party conveyed the message to Phuntshog sent by the Noble Saints. Shortly afterwards, Phuntshog left for Yuksom with his family and attendants. The Three Lamas welcomed him and accordingly consecrated “Phuntshog” as Chogiyal of Demojong. Four of them were known in the history as "Four Yogi Brothers”. The stone thrones of the four Yogi Brothers still stand at Norbughang as a milestone in the history of Sikkim. In the same year, the three lamas built a stupa at Norbughang incorporating rocks and soils collected from all parts of Sikkim to mark this important event and called it “Tashi-Hodbar Chorten". This Chorten is possibly the first Buddhist Stupa ever built in Sikkim.

When we reach Norbughang darkness has settled in. The murmur from the old trees are the only sound to keep us company. Near the Chorten, few butter lamps are glowing. And a solitary Lama is doing rounds about the Chorten and the thrones. Time has stopped here. History and religion, myth and truth, mortal and immortal, animate and inanimate are inseparable in this twilight.

When we walk back to the homestay, there are very few souls in the road. Apparently some animal has roared from the forest behind. The whole village is in alert. Mr. Limboo is more than sure, it is not bear. But who knows!

By 8 PM delicious vegetarian fare is spread on dinner table. We devour vegetables made of Pindaloo (another root vegetable), and mushroom with rice and dal. Sleep does not take long to come under layers of blanket.

    

  

 

Chapter 6: The Birds

(8-9 January 2016)

Whatever sunniness was gained yesterday, it is all lost today yet again. The sky is gloomy. We walk towards the brook behind the hospital. Forktails and Redstarts are there. But low light makes photography really challenging.

We move into the scrub jungle following the parallel trail to village. On a shrub, we see pair of mountain bulbuls sitting camouflaged with their green and brown plumage. 

A yellow bellied fantail is hopping from tree to tree by spreading the feathers of the tail in an exquisite display of narcissism.  

A narrower trail takes us to hospital compound and see a Rufous-Gorgeted Flycatcher is sitting on a stump fearlessly. The Buddhist neighbour of Mr. Limboo is engaged into his religious rituals in his small courtyard. The sound of the brass bell alarms the flycatcher and it flies away.

We take a breakfast of bajra pancake. Oh dear! If I hate any food in this trip, it is this piece. A fat black mass of dough has been mixed with milk and fried in shallow oil. One is good enough supply for your whole day energy consumption. It tastes bitter sweet. But certainly not my ‘cup of tea’. I focus on fruits and a cup of tea from Temi Garden.

We have planned to visit Dubdee Monastery today. Idea is we would do birding on its way. But a neighbour of Limboos passed away last night and a procession will also visit the monastery to perform the last rites. As per Buddhist custom, they will use many sound instruments as part of their journey and would certainly scare the birds away. We decide to go bit later.

Mr. Limboo asks me to accompany me in spotting the black bears. We decide to keep Subhalakshmi back as it may be bit adventurous for her. Spotting the bear can have only one thing to do - run with all the speed you can. She will not like that. But we have a little companion with us. Youna Hang Limboo. Youna is being raised by Mr. Limboo and his wife. He reads in class 8 of Yuksom school. Like few other kids in the village he is also being trained on bird watching. 

From the backyard of Limboo Homestay, we crossed the boundary wall and entered the trout fishery. A bushchat is surprised and watches us from a cardamom plant. Following a narrow trail we climb down towards the river valley, cross a small bridge and reach other side. The Bears usually sleep in the river valley during day time. Spotting them can be difficult and troublesome at the same time. We ask a villager if he has seen them. The answer comes negative. 

Soon birds become more active around. Leaving few laughing thrushes behind, we follow a call, which sounds to me of Spiderhunter. But Mr. Limboo confidently confirms it to be Fire-Breasted Flowerpecker. And he turns out to be absolutely right. He is sitting on top of a tree at a lower level of the ridge and signing his heart out. For such a small bird, the song is really loud but sweet. I expose few frames, but it will not be more than a record shot. 

We follow the trail further and reach a house at the corner. While Mr. Limboo enquires about the Bears, I spot a Dark-Breasted Rosefinch. 

We start returning since no news of bears activity today. Then over another tree in the lower ridge we see a large flock of birds devouring the nectar from the flower. Like alcoholics they bury their faces inside the flower completely oblivious of their surroundings. What bird is this?

Mr. Limboo confirms – it is a male Himalayan Cutia. But soon we spot female members of the family as well.

Satisfied with their drinks, a pair sit on a leafless tree and give us opportunity to observe their beauty for some more time.

Our bear adventure is not very successful today. So we decide to focus on Dubdee monastery. We pass the health centre. A small flock of Red-Billed Leothrix is playing on hanging orchid tubs. We meet Subhalakshmi near the small bridge. Mr. Limboo takes our leave. Youna will be guiding us from now onwards.

The road is cobbled, but steep. It passes through deep wood. Excellent road signs and shaded rest areas make the walk comfortable.

Though the day is not bright, yet we can see bird activities around. Laughing thrushes and leaf warblers keep on teasing us. A bar-throated Siva somersault at a branch near by. Youna looks at bushes searching for Kalij Pheasants.

Climbing about a km takes us to a motorable road that also goes to Yuksom. It is possible to take a car and get down here to avoid the first round of climb we have covered so far. Keeping few playful squirrels on the chestnut trees, we cross the road and continue the last part of the cobbled road. Another round of shorter climb takes us to the campus of Dubdee monastery.

I am seriously confused when this monastery is established. Archeological Survey of India website suggests that it was established by Gyalwa Lhatsun Chenpo, one of the three saints from Tibet, during the reign of the First Chogiyal. But the year is mentioned as 1701, which is during the period of Third Chogiyal Chakdor Namgyal. There is doubt about the year of establishment. Does it mean during the coronation ceremony of Phuntshog Namgyal, it was established spiritually, and after more than 50 years the monastery is actually built? And Chakdor had to flee to Tibet to avoid the assassination attempts by his half-sister Pendiongmu. When did he find time to patronise its construction?

Regardless of its actual establishment date, it is a beautiful monastery. The hilltop is flat and covered in grass. The monastery is sitting at the centre of it. It is open. The deities at the alter are of typical Nyingma tradition. Guru Padmasambhava at the center and few more surrounding him.

The villagers, who have come for the last rites of Mr. Limboo's dead neighbour, are still around. Some meal is being served to them.

We see few folks with bamdok knife instead of khukhri, used by most of the Gurkha communities. With all possibility, the deceased and his folks are Lepcha, who use bamfok and practice Buddhism. Lepchas follow three religions sometimes with overlapping customs and rituals. They follow Munism, a shamanistic religion. Later with the advent of Buddhism many of them converted to it, but did not renounce Mun practices completely. Conversion to Christianity is also prevalent nowadays.

We leave them alone and focus on birds around. A large flock of white-throated laughing thrushes are making huge noise around. On a hanging dead branch of a pine, a green tailed sunbird is showing off his red patch near nape.

The hills above are covered in cloud. Looking at them Youna observes, "it is snowing in mountains". Snowing in mountain means soon rain will hit lower altitude lands. We start walking back. But just after crossing the motorable road to Yuksom, rain catches us. Intensity is not much, but I am scared of my camera. We have one umbrella. That will not be enough for three of us and the equipment. We take shelter at the nearest rest area.

Rain becomes more intense. Soon very small hailstones start accompanying droplets. Fortunately, no wind. We are hungry. Subhalakshmi brings out raisin and nuts from her handbag like magic. Youna refuses raisin, but gladly accepts nuts. Taking this opportunity he informs us that his full name is 'Youna Hang Limboo'. He does not know meaning of 'Youna', but 'Hang' means king.

After about 30 min or so, the rain intensity decreases and soon transforms into faint drizzles. We start walking down. We are slow because the rock surface of the road has turned slippery. Feeling his discomfort, we ask Youna to go at his own pace as we cannot be lost in this road anymore. He disappears with great agility, which we can never match. 

We decide to do our lunch at Gupta Restaurant. It looks like a shack, but offers a surprisingly wide variety of fares including, most interestingly, pizza. The continental influence because of being a trekking destination I guess. We order chicken chowmein. It is around 3:30 PM but restaurant has good occupancy. A group of Bengali youths are having thali, whereas another large group of Israelis are devouring chapati and alu-jeera. Food is not bad.

We meet the owner, Raju Gupta. Mr. Gupta is from Siwan district of Bihar. He is here for 23 years. Apparently he is doing good business. The restaurant is expanding as he has already arranged the adjacent plot for its extension. 

Yesterday, due to low light, we could not see Norbughang properly. Thus we go there once more. Today, it is completely deserted. We walk around the Chorten and throne. The silence is broken by my mobile. Sanjip. We ask him to confirm at a Gurung homestay at Darap. He will also come with his car to pick us up.

Kathog lake is closed. So we walk back to our shelter. Rain starts, yet again. Fortunately we have borrowed another umbrella from Limboos and manage to cover us well. Hot tea comes and warms us up. Using his laptop, Mr. Limboo shows me a presentation he has prepared for his students. Using attractive pictures he has tried to create interest on bird watching and some best practices on conservation. Interestingly, he has spent quite a few slides on alcohol. He explains, drinking is a big vice here in village. Many families are ruined or trapped in poverty because of this vice. Thus he is trying to make the young minds aware of this bad habit.

The Israeli group from Gupta Restaurant comes and checks into a ground floor room. Around 7:30 PM dinner is served. Ghundruk soup, squash root vegetable, chapati, chana daal, salad, rice. The pattering sound of ceaseless rain, mixed with marijuana influenced sad Israeli tunes give us nightlong company. 

Usually, with nightlong rain, the sky clears next morning in winter at hills. Proving that wisdom wrong, the sky remains gloomy in the morning. We sat at the backyard and request Mrs. Limboo to serve our alu-paratha there. A Himalayan Bluetail gives us company while hopping around.

Since the rain has stopped, and we have couple of hours to kill, we visit Kathog lake. The entrance is still closed. Subhalakshmi asks a villager nearby who asks a Bhutia lady to open it. Apparently she is the custodian of this gate. We buy our tickets and walk to the shore. The rain starts yet again.

The legend is - one of the three revered lamas, Ngadag Sempa Rigzin Phuntshog, sanctified the lake, which is situated just below Norbughang. The lake is a holy place fo Buddhist pilgrims. Many of the hand made chortens and prayer flags around it make it evident. 

We find Sanjip and another young man as his companion. Diken Rai. Sanjip's relative and a mountaineer. He is also interested in birding. Thus Sanjip has brought him to introduce with us.

We bid farewell to Mr. And Mrs. Limboo. "Please start writing a blog about local birds, culture, history, and Yuksom", I advise Mr. Limboo. "Very few people know about these. It is time to make them aware". Mr. Limboo smiles.  

We cross Yuksom school then take a right turn towards Pelling instead of continuing on Tashiding road. We reach Kanchenjunga falls. We'd to buy ticket to reach the falls through a staircase. The falls is beautiful. We could have enjoyed it better had there not been a very noisy Bengali tourist group posing, eating and making merry of that serene place. We quit. Though Sanjip tells us it is relatively less crowded today. Otherwise getting a parking space would have been really difficult here.

I am very keen to visit Khecheopalri Lake. Mr. Limboo has advised that fire-tailed Myzornis inhabit the chestnut trees on the approach to the lake. Moreover the lake has a legend about birds. It is believed that a pair of ducks keep the lake clean by taking away every leaf that has fallen on the water. I have found through the Internet that the ducks are Margenser, a river duck, which stay here around the year.

So, we reach Meli and take another right turn instead of continuing towards Pelling. After 10 km, we reach near the lake. No luck with Myzornis. But even from the distance I can see a flock of ducks swimming in the lake. Challenge is distance. A small jetty is built from the approach road to the shore. You can only see the lake from there. And yet again a noisy tourist group is around. With their presence, there is very little chance that the ducks will come anywhere close to jetty. Thus I avoid the jetty and directly walk inside the grassland, which is swampy. My Quechua Foreclaz 500 will give me waterproof protection only upto 2 inch, which would not be enough if I want go any further.

While I am thinking about shoes, like a premonition, a musical voice appears near my knee, "Excuse me. You cannot wear shoes here". I stare down to see an innocent face. A Bhutia kid. I smile back and thank him. But his face is stern and points to a signboard that clearly states wearing shoes is prohibited near the lake, which is a holy place for Buddhists. I understand my mistake, apologise, take off my shoes and enter the jetty. Fortunately the tourist party has left by that time.

My patience or absence of noise paid off. The flock starts to swim near the shore. Apparently we see only one female bird in a group of about ten males. Do they have ugh a weird sex ratio? One male is bit fearless and leading the flock near the shore.

But the kid and his friend start to ring the brass bells hanging over the jetty. The flock turn around, go deeper into the lake, and start resting. It is unlikely that they will move before another hour or so.

We reach Darap, which is about 6 km before Pelling around 3:30 PM. The place is rather pale in comparison to our previous two places. It is near a market. We park our car beside the road and walk up to Daragaon Village Retreat, our shelter for tonight.

We are greeted by the owner of the property Radha Gurung and few kids. We informed earlier of our lunch. Yet we are given tea. And after half an hour of arrival chicken noodles is served. A bit distraction from last few days treats. It tasted okay though.

Sanjip and Diken go to a friends place. They will come back in the evening to have some discussion around birding. We go for a walk. The walk is nice through a shallow forest. But evening approaches fast so we come back.

Sanjip and Diken are already there sitting near a fire at the courtyard. But since we want identify birds, I get my camera and our copy of Grimmett, Inskipp, and Inskipp and move into the living room. The kids are there. Shiva Gurung, Radhaji's husband, is also back.

We chat for half an hour identifying the birds. Sanjip discusses his plan to train Diken and Gyanubhai as birding guides and start bird-watching as an attraction around Selep. I think that is a good idea. If Kewzing can do it, there is no reason why Selep cannot. But I recommend them to focus on local famous birds first. It is important to identify them, study their habitat, so that spotting can be easier. I ask them to focus on few - my wishlist of Satyr Tragopan, and fire-tailed Myzornis are included there.

Dinner is served. I read from TripAdvisor reviews that Radhaji is an excellent cook. We could not experience that during lunch. But dinner is certainly a testimonial of that claim. The chicken curry was delicious.

(The picture of the kids are taken on next morning)

Chapter 7: The Sunny Farewell

(10 January 2016)

  

We have started this trip with a sunny weather. Over the period of next few days the weather has gone gloomy to gloomier. Though last afternoon has indicated towards a brighter mood, we do not have any expectation whatsoever from the weather God this morning.

But a pleasant surprise is waiting for us in the morning. The wind is paper crisp. The sky is spotlessly clear. Location of Daragaon Village Retreat does not give any good view of Kanchenjunga range, which the nearby Pelling is famous for. But some of the other peaks, which are visible today, are covered with snow.

I have heard that climbing up somewhere near the Gurung's place can give a good view. So we quickly meet Gurungji, and seek direction, which turns out to be a trail that starts behind the homestay. We move quickly through a terraced cardamom field till we see the top of the spectacular classic pyramid of Sleeping Buddha.

We need to start early, as we shall have to cover quite a few places today before boarding the Padatik Express from NJP. Thus we climb down to homestay and take breakfast. Sanjip and Diken join us in few minutes.

At breakfast table, I chat with Gurungji on how he came up with the idea of setting up a homestay in Darap, which does not have anything special in comparison to its neighbour, Pelling. "I did my schooling in Yuksom", he starts. "To earn some pocket money, I used to help the Trekkers as porter, and later, guide. Since Yuksom and Pelling are in same tourism circuit, many of my customers expressed interest in staying at my village. Then it started. I set up the first homestay here in 2007. But until 2010, only foreigners used to stay here. Then a lady from Bangalore came here with a party. She was impressed. Later she helped me with technology to do the marketing. Now many of my co-villagers have followed my path".

He continues, "The economy of Darap is dependent on agriculture, mostly cardamom. That income is good enough for your living, but just about that and nothing more. So you do not have money to support your kids' education. As a result they drop out of school after 10th standard, and join farming as their previous generation did. It forms a vicious cycle. The homestay gives us the much needed ammunition to break away from this cycle. I am sending my daughter to a good missionary school in Gangtok". Traces of pride spices up his voice, "My son will follow her in few years." What a lovely story!

He and Radhaji keep a small library at the living cum dining room of the homestay. The subjects range from wildlife to Sikkim to Buddhism to Tibetology. I see titles in English, and Hindi. Such a refreshing corner in a mountain village.

We take leave from Shivaji, Radhaji and kids.

On our way to Pelling, Before we crossing Darap market, Diken asks Sanjip to stop the car. We get down and Diken introduces us to a middle-aged gentleman. I do not recognise him from the look, but the name immediately rings bell. Amar Subba. The Marathon Man. In 2011 he run more than 440 km in seven days reaching almost 13000 feet altitude in his course. It is a world record. He turns out to be a very humble man with a very warm nature.   

As we are approaching Pelling, the view of Kanchenjunga becomes livelier. We take couple of stops just to appreciate the view, which we have been deprived of since last few days. 

We decide to skip Pemayangtse Monastery, since we visited that couple of years back, and want to reach our birding destinations quicker. First one comes quick - Rabdantse Ruins.

The three revered saints from Tibet coronated Phuntshog Namgyal as Sikkim's first Chogiyal in 1642. His son Tensing Namgyal became the second Chogiyal in 1670. In the same year, he moved the capital from Sikkim from Yuksom to Rabdantse, which remained the seat of the Throne for next 44 years. In 1717 Gurkhas from Nepal started to invade Sikkim repeatedly during the rein of Fourth Chogiyal, Gyurmed Namgyal. He got the Rabdantse fortified. But during the next Chogiyal, Phuntshog Namgyal II, the only and an illegitimate child of Gyurmed Namgyal by a nun, the Gurkha invasion continued. To add to difficulty Bhutan also attacked Sikkim along with rebellions from local Magar and Tsong tribes. Rabdantse was raided by Gurkhas and destroyed to a large extent. In 1780, the Sixth Chogiyal, Tenzing Namgyal succeeded his father. But he was weak and fled to Tibet in the face of Gurkha invasion and died in exile. His son Tshudpud Namgyal became the next Chogiyal in 1793. He supported successful Britsh Campaign against Nepal in 1814-1815 and won back some of the lost territory. During the same time, because of Rabdantse's geographical proximity to Nepal, he shifted the capital once more to Tumlong. Rabdantse became a ruin thereafter.

We start walking from the gate. First the spoiler. A bird sanctuary is being constructed near this ruins. It will take a form of a skywalk within a netted area. Not sure how interesting it would be, but I personally think it will not be anything more than a zoo. Whatever it is, it certainly has scared the birds, and there is hardly any activity around. So focus on visiting the palace ruins. The trail enters a wooded area mostly of chestnut tree (Katus) and some oak. In around 20 min of so over a gradual uphill walk we reach the ruins.

It is spectacular. The ruins are sitting at the backdrop of snow covered Kanchenjunga range. And the palace is overlooking Pemayangtse Hill over a valley. Under the glorious sun, three chortens only give us a glimpse of Royal and Religious lives hundreds of years ago.

We come back and start driving again. A very steep road, only opened for private vehicles, takes us rather quickly to Geyzing, the headquarter of West District of Sikkim. Diken takes our leave here. We continue towards Legship, reach the bridge over Rangit. Continuing beside Rangit would have taken us to Reshi, where the Khandro Sanphug or Southern Cave is located. But we would avoid that road as that would take us to Jorthang, which has a bad road till Melli now. We shall instead go to Selep for a quick lunch at Sanjip's place before we head back to NJP. So we cross the bridge and enter South Sikkim.

Lower Rangit valley is a good birding spot. Thus our drive is slow. We stop the car multiple times when we see any bird activity. Our effort is rewarded with spotting yellow napes, some green tailed sunbirds, and a lovely flock of striated bulbul.

We reach near Kewzing where we stop for refuelling. Apart from a male Niltava sitting under shadow, making it almost invisible, no other birds are seen around.

I ask Sanjip if we can quickly visit Kewzing Bon Monastery. Sanjip readily agrees. This monastery is special, as this one of the very few Bon Monasteries in India and the only one in Sikkim.

Bon is an indigenous religion of Tibet founded by Tonpo Shenrab Miwoche. The exact time of foundation is unknown, the Bon followers or Bonpos think it is 16000 BC. The original religion was animistic and shamanistic. With the arrival of Buddhism into Tibet in the 7th century, Bon was persecuted under Buddhist rulers. But it survived and and for its survival it picked up elements of Tibetan Buddhism. As a result, the current form of Bon religion is very close to Tibetan Buddhism. In the website of Bon Foundation, bonfoundation.org, a letter by Dalai Lama endorsing Bon religion is published. Apparently the Bonpo community arrived in India because of Chinese invasion in Tibet, similar reason as Buddhist Tibetans.

It is a Sunday. We see a small congregation at the Monastery courtyard. I go and speak to one of the devotees if I can ask some questions about their religion. They pointed to Monk Dawa from Dolanji, Himachal Pradesh. He claims that Buddha recognised Tonpo Shenrab as his teacher. Thus they keep the Buddha as an additional idol beside that of Tonpo Shenrab at the centre of the alter. Historically it is unlikely as Bon religion started to revive themselves by adopting Buddhist elements from 11th century, quite a few centuries after Buddhism was founded.

Mr. and Mrs. Rai was waiting for us, so was another delicious lunch at Selep Village Homestay, yet again. We have duku (stems of rai shak), maku (chhurpi mixed with ghee), butter bean and peas vegetable, daal, chicken curry, papad, and radish and lemon salad. Organic and mostly sourced from Newang garden and farm.

The Rai seniors refuse to take payment for lunch. We are so touched. More vegetables in the form of two varieties of squashes further add to the weight of our already heavy gift bag. We are transferred into an Innova. Lambu comes and helps us to transfer the bags. He is expecting some 'gift'. We have an half finished vodka bottle at our bag. I hand it over to him. He quickly grabs, puts it in an inner pocket of his torn jacket, and gives me a martial salute.

We cross Ravangla and take the road to Damthang. From the woods, a pair of yellow throated martens arrive. The curious one stands erect on hind legs and bids us farewell. Bye bye mystic land, the land of Padmasambhava.