Black River, Green River: Ganeshgudi 2018

NH 66 widened after it entered the state of Karnataka – but it lost the beautiful forest cover. We took farewell to the coastal highway near Karwar. Forest cover returned.

The road became undulating. A sign that we were hitting the ghats once more. Vegetation turned dense. Sign of Kali Tiger Reserve arrived.

The forest is named after River Kali – means black river. We were heading to Ganeshgudi, an outskirt of Tiger Reserve. The small settlement is at the lap of the river, near a dam called Supa.

While driving in early morning, Parashuram, our driver, saw an eagle owl, and some jackals. Now, they were not around. But we stopped near a watch tower at a bend.

The road passed by small villages. Paddy fields and small huts to keep a watch during night.

We reached a small check post. A shop selling souvenirs, trekking hats, tee-shirts. The owner was a bearded man – a wildlife photographer himself. Some of his framed shots were hanging from the wall of the shop. Knowing our destination, he expressed satisfaction. “Last couple of days were good for birding.” Some word of encouragement.

We crossed a bridge over a beautiful river. The water was emerald green. This was Kali. Such a misnomer!

In 3 kilometers we reached a bend with clear sign – “The Old Magazine House, Ganeshgudi”. Our destination reached.

Uh! Woods!

***

The dirt road was red, remnant of its volcanic past. It passed through dense rain forest vegetation. Soon a gate arrived.

The place has a history. In mid 70’s, when Supa Dam was being constructed to solve irrigation and flooding problems in Kali basin, the explosives were kept at couple of small buildings in Ganeshgudi. The dam became operational in 1987, and these buildings lost its usage but retained its name “The Old Magazine House”.

About fifteen years back, David John (?), an European settled in Goa, who used to run white water rafting in Dandeli, came up with the idea of setting up few bird baths in front of these buildings. Soon small birds started to visit it. And eventually the place turned into a resort.

Check in was quick. The manager of the property sounded less enthusiastic than he was over phone a month back, when asked about the birds.

Our room was large, clean. The other building was green. Dormitory at ground floor, food served at roof, covered with shades. Near a large tree, plastic arm chairs were scattered. A green blind with a horizontal gap in between. Already few birders set up their tripod keeping the lenses exposed through the gap. We also erected ours.

On other side, few bird baths were strategically placed to keep them at eye level of the birders. Behind, bamboo thickets, and bushes, followed by dense jungle.

With no birds around though, we walked up the iron staircase to have lunch. Food was good.

By 2:30 PM we were back at the blind. It took another good 30 min before the first bird was seen - a beautiful emerald dove. It was followed by a shama. And then as if, somebody turned on the flow. Within next 2 hours - we were visited by no less than 20 different species: oriental white-eye, puff throated babbler, dark fronted babbler, black naped monarch, asian paradise flycatcher, white-bellied blue flycatcher, rusty-tailed flycatcher, indian black bird, orange headed ground thrush, crimson-backed sunbird, flame throated bulbul, yellow browed bulbul, and so on.

Not all of them were on bird baths though. A large hawk cuckoo sat over our head. A heart spotted woodpecker preferred to stay near bamboo ticket. We also started to notice the preference of baths by species. Monarch and asian paradise flycatcher only used the rightmost bath. Whereas flame throated bulbul did not use anything other than the middle one.

Around 4:45 PM, the bird activity slowed a little and we got bit of a breather to meet the other birders around. A group of 5 visited from Bangalore. They were checking out today.

We walked with them through the forest leading to the bus stop. The light was fading. But some activity on a tree above. We expected Bonnet Macaque, but found a small troop of Grey Langurs.

The birders gave us some tips about the leaf birds, and vernal hanging parrot activity over some flowering bushes near the tarred road. They missed malabar trogon though. We bade goodbye.

Some more activity above. Primates undoubtedly. And yes, bonnet macaques. The male was agitated at the presence of grey langurs near another tree. It started to snarl teeth and shake the branches. Langurs, though much bigger in sizes, decided to retreat. Some peace prevailed.

Back at Old Magazine House, the bird activity resumed. Apparently, we missed the male asian paradise flycatcher. But we did not repent to walk through the forest.

A bonfire was lit up near the tree. We sat in a circle exchanging gossips and wild tales. Hot soup and pakora was served. A canteen staff carried a plastic tray with a huge scorpion. The scale was bluish black. Must be lethal. We felt glad and safe with our shoes. It was released.

Dinner was good. Smell of glowing charcoal, and murmur of the leaves made it even more delicious.

Uh! Woods!

***

Morning was misty. Yet through dark woods, diffused but bright light was pregnant with possibilities.

Parshuram brought an old SUV today. Another birder accompanied us.

The road to Dandeli was hilly and beautiful. But the town was nondescript. We entered Dandeli Timber Depot. It is an old establishment from British era that used to serve The Indian Plywood Manufacturing Company, West Coast Paper Mill and other companies around. Now the timber operation has been ceased. The factory is nothing but a skeleton. But it has become famous for a different reason - hornbills.

The campus hosts six species of fruiting tree that are loved by hornbills. Thus the live here happily. We were after them this morning.

Our initial catch was a crested tree swift preening on a tree stump, keeping bright blue sky at background. Soon a pair of Malabar Pied Hornbills. Then Malabar Grey Hornbills. Some flameback woodpeckers were found, but no luck with the the local celebrity - White-bellied Woodpecker.

Back at resort, after a quick breakfast, we drove to Kali river. A circular boat, coracle, waited for us. Over the emerald water, we went for a ride.

We passed through the branches leaning over water. On other bank a huge crocodile was basking at the sun. Noticing our approach, it hurriedly crawled to river leaving a trace of small bubbles in its underwater trajectory.

During lunch I chatted with their senior most naturalist - Jama Pariakar. The Malabar Trogon visited in the morning. But none of us were around for its visit.

We had less serious birders this afternoon. Thus more noise, and less birds this afternoon.

There were no scorpions in the evening. But the jungle was making its presence felt at every moment in the darkness.

Uh! Woods!

***

Morning. Through the dense woods, beams of light touched the forest floor, opening a mysterious vista in front of us.

Vinayak was our naturalist this morning. The day started with a distant shot of crested goshawk. At the tar road, over coconut flowers crimson backed sunbirds were busy. Near a square, where Bangalore birders boarded their bus, we spotted orange minivet, gold fronted leafbird, and Malabar barbet.

Vinayak picked up the faint tweet. ‘Malabar Trogon call’ - he whispered. No time to wait for others who fell behind busy spotting other birds. We followed the call and walked forth.

Saw the female first, sitting under dark canopy. Vinayak spotted the male, sitting just above our head, keeping blue sky at background, proudly exposing pinkish red belly. The bird looked too beautiful to be real. With his black head and red belly, separated by a semilunar white curve – he almost came out of a kid’s imagination.

Others joined but the birds flew to other side of the road. We followed, watched, and photographed them for some more time.

On our way back, a green vine snake was found. Our naturalist held it with a stick, before releasing to forest. The hole of a large furry tarantula was discovered. The spider did not like our presence and hurriedly walked back deeper in its tunnel.

At coracle it was just Tum and I. No crocodile today. But we met a beautiful woolly necked stork. A pair of Malabar pied hornbills decided to sit at same tree and started making menacing noise to the bigger bird. The stork ignored their irritating presence and focused at preening exercise.

Afternoon birds were repetitive. White bellied woodpecker calls started coming. But it never came within our spotting range. An Indian pitta made a quick visit, but almost all of us missed him.

It was Diwali night. But the forest was blissfully silent. Only glowing amber of bonfire gave us company.

Uh! Woods!

***

Our morning  birding was not very eventful. Some distant shots of vernal hanging parrot was recorded. Jama, our naturalist this morning advised us to come back in February, when it is easier to shoot them over silk cotton tree drinking nectar from red flowers. A pale billed flowerpecker was clicked though.

Parashuram was back with his car. Bags were packed and loaded. Jama waved and asked me to follow. Malabar trogon! Yet again! With our attention to male, the female, no less a beauty, felt dejected, and turned her back to us. What a farewell!

On our way to Goa airport, we stopped near Supa dam. Looking at vast expanse of emerald water of a river named ‘Kali’, or blacky, we wondered how lucky we were to experience her. Such beautiful birds, elegant animals, and Mother Nature, hosting them all, hosting us.

Uh! Woods!