Of Tea and Monkeys: Valparai 2019

Dusk was falling fast.


The car stopped near a turn overlooking a large dam. A board confirmed its name - Aliyar, one of the many dams and reservoirs at Tamil Nadu Kerala border over Western Ghats.


An onlooker confirmed that an elephant was there over the grassland near the water. We could not see him.


We drove on. The hairpin bends started. We dreamt over it many times over last six months.


We hoped to see Nilgiri Tahrs at these bends. Solomon, our driver cum guide for next three days, seemed to be confident that we would see them between 9th and 21st bend. We were not sure.


We reached 9th bend alright. Nilgiri Tahrs were nowhere around. Those mountain goats also have life. Who wants to wander about near sharp bends at dark evening!  We focussed elsewhere.


Evening engulfed us like a blue veil. Cars left a trail of light over the winding roads below. Aliyar dam was visible below. Few motorbike driven lovers tried to take selfie, ended up throwing flash, and left. The road, hairpin bends, distant trailing lights of leaving vehicle - all seeped into a mellow continuum.


***


The flight from Chennai to Coimbatore arrived on time. Solomon took another good 45 min to arrive at airport. Apparently some roads were closed due to repair work. He had to take detours.


We stopped near a small locality. Solomon handed over a packet of food to his wife. They married recently. Unfortunately his wife stays near Coimbatore for professional reasons. So detour was not the only reason for his delay.


By the time we reached forest check post after Pollachi, we were good one and half hours late.


***


We rode bends after bends. At darkness, to fight our nervousness, we chatted and counted bend numbers. Solomon spoke incessantly to his new bride over phone - poor boy.


Forests passed. Tea gardens started. We started descend to a valley. Localities started to appear. Valparai arrived.


The homestay was at a slope. We walked downstairs to our room. Clean, big. Food ordered from a local restaurant - Friendz Cafe. Chilli chicken and fried rice was surprisingly tasty - never expected at this small tea town at Southern heartland.


***

Morning revealed a beautiful vista through the large window of our room. An undulating tea garden sat in front of us.


We drove through the town. Laid back shops were yet to be ready with their breakfast fare. We moved on, and came out of town. Soon the car arrived near a picturesque river flowing through the slopes of tea garden.


The name of the river is Koozhangal or pebble. With its pebble bottom visible through crystal clear water, it is perfectly named. A pristine white bridge sat on top of it. An ancient cow herder sat on its railing with his royal moustache singing a sad tune.

The idli and sambar at the town was deliciously good. Unlike other southern towns, tea flew here easily and tastily. We were in tea country, afterall.


***


A small temple stood under a pipal tree. Solomon came down and spoke to couple of folks sat near it. We came down.


And we saw them. Couple of black monkeys sat over the branches of the tree. High on our wishlist, we wanted to meet these handsome blokes for long. Lion-tailed Macaques.


Till 2012, it was a ‘critically endangered’ species by IUCN redlist. Thanks to the effort of government, it has managed to come off that rating, but still hovering at ‘threatened’ status.


Valparai is one of the few places where they thrive. There were five groups around this town. This couple over the tree are part of ‘temple group’. These men were research assistants tracking them.


We waited for half an hour. The couple on the tree did not show any intention of coming down. Sun reflected on their white mane - they were enjoying it fullest on a winter morning.


One of the trackers rode his bicycle forth. After 10 min a call came at Solomon’s mobile. Apparently another group was staying close to the road. So we followed.


That was 22 strong ‘Rottikadai group’. The alpha male was standing on the guard rail of the road. He was curious with my camera and moved forward. Like a press photographer covering a busy politician, I had to walk back to keep him within frame. He suddenly lost interest and jumped down from the road.


The family was down below. We followed them there. Few fig trees were their primary attraction. They largely ignored us and feasted on ripe red fruits. A malabar giant squirrel emitted call of impatience looking at their selfish gluttony.

 ***


“One out of three” - we exclaimed to Solomon. Today’s target was three mammals - lion tailed macaque, nilgiri tahr, and nilgiri langur. Solomon was pretty confident that we would spot rest two before day ends.


So we followed the hairpin bends towards Pollachi. We stopped for a quick tea at a roadside stall. Tea gardens and forest cover interchangeably walked along the road. Eventually we reached 9th bend - the abode of nilgiri tahr.


We found a couple by road side - munching leaves and ignoring us - altogether. A forest official came and drove them away by throwing stones - bur reasons unknown to us. May be he wanted a portrait and did not like that our attention was devoted to goats.

Aliyar checkpost was crossed. We stopped at a roadside eatery for lunch. The sambar, poriyal, and fish fry was delicious. The fish was fresh and caught from the dam this morning.


We visited Monkey Falls briefly. Full of tourists - and not worth. We preferred the road, which was anyway more beautiful.


At 12th bend we met another large male nilgiri tahr. We spent 15 min in his company. His almost sad eyes and magnificent horns were misfit though.


Forest cover came back. Solomon applied sudden brake, reversed and stopped the car. He searched something at the tree - and waved to us with broad smile. Nilgiri langur. 

They were sitting on a distant tree on the slope. However, light favoured photography.


It is amazing to see how nature evolved both these monkey species with same coloration - black body and grey or white head. Another mystery of nature, where getting an answer would be difficult.


“Three out of three” - we were satisfied with our score undoubtedly.


***


Evening. Near the homestay, not a soul around. The narrow road still have not lost its Christmas shine.  Lights shaped like Star of David hung near the church.

Friendz Cafe delivered garlic chicken and veg fried rice. Chilli chicken was better.


***


A soulful tune woke us up in the morning. Malabar Whistling Thrush. A master singer. How could a bird emits such complex and beautiful tune?


At 8 AM we sat at idly shop. A purple chutney came. Our curiosity revealed its beetroot origin.


Solomon drove towards Chinna Kallar, arguably the third wettest region in India, after Mawsynram and Cherrapunji.


The road was broken but beautiful. As usual, alternately forest and tea gardens moved along our drive. A forest checkpost. Solomon had some Tamil conversation with the forester to get permission. 

Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters were plenty. We searched trees for Nilgiri Langurs in vain. A Blue-bearded Bee-eater enjoyed its solitude in dark shade. A Nilgiri Flycatcher made a grand appearance.


We crossed Nirar Dam, a tiny one comparing to Aliyar we saw yesterday. Solomon parked his car near a tea garden shade. A Malabar Whistling Thrush moved inside the hut noticing our intrusion. His morning song has been replaced by a coarse angry whistle.


We crossed a bridge over a stream to reach few forest quarters. Solomon spoke to them for arranging lunch. Unfortunately no chicken today.


The walk to Chinna Kallar falls was bit of a let down. The trail was given a shape of a park. Distant views were excellent though. Western Ghat peaks, their grassland, and shola forest, and reflection of brilliant blue sky over the puddle created by the falls.


Lunch was served under a shade. Usual tasty vegetarian fare. The lady, Usha, fixed a beautiful rose at Tum’s hair. Couple of Whistling Thrushes flew in open - giving us the opportunity to photograph them. Their beautiful black and blue plumage spread at sheer exhibitionism. It all seemed so beautiful.


Near the forest checkpost, tea garden labours crowded near a collection shade. Their harvest followed on a truck.


More narrow and winding roads through Sholyar tea garden. A Stripe-necked Mongoose crossed the road in leisure. A scooter from other side scared him to retreat inside bushes.


We reached near a tea shop among the garden all side. A delicious cup later, we walked through the bushes to reach Nallamudi viewpoint. It was let down again. Only view it offered was some peaks covered with shola forest, and a distant tribal village almost hidden inside woods.


At late afternoon, Akkamalai Tea Factory was better. Being the highest factory in Valparai, it overlooks Grass Hills. Unfortunately, forest department had stopped trekking inside it for tourists. True to its name, undulating grass covered slopes punctuated by shola forests was luring.


Far above, a common bazzard sat at a dead tree top, waiting for nothing.


We were back to our safety at dinner. Chilli Chicken and Veg Fried Rice was good enough.


***


In the morning we reached Puthuthottam tea estate. Idea was to meet the third group of Lion-tailed Macaques.


We did not have to try much. They were waiting for us. It was a large group of 32. One of them landed on top of our car, grew liking towards the wipers, and decided to dislodge one of them for his personal collection. Solomon was not amused. He had to wield a stick to discourage him from this souvenir collection spree.


We followed them for sometime through the estate. Soon we lost track. Down below we saw a Rufous Babbler. And it was the metal road we looking for. Solomon’s car was parked nearby.


Idly was finished by the time we settled for breakfast. We had to satisfy ourselves with dosa.


The road to Sholyar Dam was beautiful. We found a small bridge over a brook near hilly slopes of a tea garden. A grey jungle fowl crossed the road.


Blue Sholyar lake sat among red hills and green forest. Dam was ugly though. We reached Malakkapara check post. A permit was collected. Apparently we needed to cross 80 KM of dense forest in next two hours. No way!

 

Five kilometer down the road, and we saw couple of Nilgiri Langurs at roadside, busy with shoots. Solomon was bit tensed. But a tribal couple walked towards us - total composure.


Near Lower Sholyar dam, we saw a bus and an excited crowd. An elephant! A tasker on other side of the water body. My long lens gave me some privilege and crowd moved to provide a vantage position. Then a queue was formed behind me to take a mobile shot of elephant from my camera screen. Some niceties exchanged in Tamil and English and we moved.


Near a turn, amongst a bamboo grove, a the dome shape of pachyderm was visible. A calf was also around. We had to wait till they moved inside. Solomon had reasons to be tensed.


After reaching Sholyar pump house, Solomon came back to his chatterbox self. Apparently the dangerous part of journey was over.


Vazhachal checkpost arrived. Becuase of tourist crowd, we decided to skip visiting Vazahchal falls.


Athirapally Falls was no better. The place reeked of tourists. Lunch was bad. The expensive fry was from an ancient fish.  We enjoyed the view of the falls from a roadside viewpoint.


***


The weather has turned warm, humid. We left behind the crisp winter air, beautiful black monkeys, undulating slopes of endless tea gardens, forty hairpin bends, fearless mountain goats, hanging Christmas stars, and crystal clear brooks.


Good-bye Valparai!